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Wall Mounted TV Cabinet


H2OBungalow
H2OBungalow
H2OBungalow
H2OBungalow

Having the big TV front and center in the middle of my small living area was becoming a huge issue. Especially because it took up so much room with the wheeled TV stand we had. My new Wall Mounted TV Cabinet lets us watch TV by extending the 31” wall mounted arm and turning the TV towards the seating area. When we are done, we slide it back into the cabinet and shut the doors. I share how to finish raw wood for a contemporary finish and mount a large photo in posts on my blog, H2OBungalow.com.

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  1. Project Steps

    1. Step: 1

      Cut List:  2 – 1x8 at 33” – Sides  2 – 1x8 at 47-3/8” - Top & Bottom  3 – 1x4 at 47-3/8” – Bottom Support & French Cleat  2 – 3/4” plywood at 12-1/16” x 33” – Outer Doors  2 – 3/4” plywood at 12-1/8” x 33” – Inner Doors 

    2. Step: 2

      Cut the pieces for the sides, top and bottom. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the top and bottom pieces. Secure the top and bottom to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

    3. Step: 3

      Cut the pieces for the bottom support and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the bottom support to the sides of the cabinet (resting on the bottom of the cabinet frame) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

    4. Step: 4

      Cut the pieces for the French cleat.  Use a jigsaw set to a 45 degree angle or cut a 45 degree bevel along one long edge of each piece with a table saw. Lay one piece on a work surface with the bevel facing down and mark the ends as well as the long edge opposite the bevel for pocket holes. Drill the pocket holes. Secure this piece inside the cabinet flush with the back edges of the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Set the other piece for the French cleat aside. 

    5. Step: 5

      Cut the pieces for the doors and apply edge banding to the exposed edges of the plywood using a household iron, trimming away the excess banding.  Lay the doors on a work surface – the 12-1/16” wide doors will be on the outside and the 12-1/8” doors will be on the inside, with 1/8” between each door panel. Secure the hinges to the inside or back face of each pair of doors.   

    6. Step: 6

      Install the hinges for the outer doors on the cabinet frame, then install each door pair to the cabinet.  Install magnet closures at top of cabinet  

    7. Step: 7

      Step Six To install the French cleat on the wall, mark the position for the cabinet on the wall and locate the wall studs. The lag screws will be secured through the cleat and drywall into the wall studs. Lay the French cleat on a work surface with the bevel facing down and mark the position for the studs. Pre-drill the holes for the lag screws. Position the cleat on the wall and drive the lag screws through the pre-drilled holes in the cleat and the drywall into the wall studs.  Hang the cabinet on the cleat mounted to the wall matching the bevels.

Comments (9)


  • AWESOME Job Wendi!!! How fun to be able to play w/ your own set of power tools! Thanks to You & Ryobi for the opportunity to win MY own set!!
    By kweenbee_612_81554, on August 3, 2017
    • Hi and thank you so much! I love the freedom to create practically anything with my Ryobi Power Tools. There's nothing like the feeling of looking at something and thinking I can build that. Best of luck to you on the giveaway!
      By H2OBungalow, on August 3, 2017

  • this is stunning do you mind me asking if your selling it or do you have another one where i can buy it through paypal no joke i love it
    By carol clark, on August 5, 2017
    • Hi Carol! Thank you for such an awesome note, you just made my day! Unfortunately I am not selling this one, our living room needed the solution! If you are not comfortable with your building skills I'd suggest downloading the free plans from here and having someone build the cabinet for you. You could mount the print yourself, it wasn't hard and I'll share a post on the blog next week with details on how we did that step if you need a few pointers. Good luck and thank you again for your sweet note!
      By H2OBungalow, on August 6, 2017
    • Hi Carol thank you so much for your sweet note. Unfortunately, I am not selling this one and am not making any more. Maybe you have someone who can follow these plans for you and build one? Good luck and thanks so much for your visit on my project!
      By H2OBungalow, on August 19, 2017

  • Awesome project. Thanks for sharing your plans.
    By grover959, on August 10, 2017
    • You're welcome! I hope you get to build one, it looks fabulous on the wall...so much better than just the TV alone!
      By H2OBungalow, on August 19, 2017

  • Wow! Clever and beautiful way to disguise a TV!
    By RYOBI Nation, on August 18, 2017
    • Thank you! It looks much better than it used to on the wall.
      By H2OBungalow, on August 19, 2017

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Update Image

Wall Mounted TV Cabinet

by H2OBungalow
Jul 26, 2017

Having the big TV front and center in the middle of my small living area was becoming a huge issue. Especially because it took up so much room with the wheeled TV stand we had. My new Wall Mounted TV Cabinet lets us watch TV by extending the 31” wall mounted arm and turning the TV towards the seating area. When we are done, we slide it back into the cabinet and shut the doors. I share how to finish raw wood for a contemporary finish and mount a large photo in posts on my blog, H2OBungalow.com.

Project Steps

  1. Step: 1

    Cut List:  2 – 1x8 at 33” – Sides  2 – 1x8 at 47-3/8” - Top & Bottom  3 – 1x4 at 47-3/8” – Bottom Support & French Cleat  2 – 3/4” plywood at 12-1/16” x 33” – Outer Doors  2 – 3/4” plywood at 12-1/8” x 33” – Inner Doors 

  2. Step: 2

    Cut the pieces for the sides, top and bottom. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the top and bottom pieces. Secure the top and bottom to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

  3. Step: 3

    Cut the pieces for the bottom support and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the bottom support to the sides of the cabinet (resting on the bottom of the cabinet frame) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

  4. Step: 4

    Cut the pieces for the French cleat.  Use a jigsaw set to a 45 degree angle or cut a 45 degree bevel along one long edge of each piece with a table saw. Lay one piece on a work surface with the bevel facing down and mark the ends as well as the long edge opposite the bevel for pocket holes. Drill the pocket holes. Secure this piece inside the cabinet flush with the back edges of the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Set the other piece for the French cleat aside. 

  5. Step: 5

    Cut the pieces for the doors and apply edge banding to the exposed edges of the plywood using a household iron, trimming away the excess banding.  Lay the doors on a work surface – the 12-1/16” wide doors will be on the outside and the 12-1/8” doors will be on the inside, with 1/8” between each door panel. Secure the hinges to the inside or back face of each pair of doors.   

  6. Step: 6

    Install the hinges for the outer doors on the cabinet frame, then install each door pair to the cabinet.  Install magnet closures at top of cabinet  

  7. Step: 7

    Step Six To install the French cleat on the wall, mark the position for the cabinet on the wall and locate the wall studs. The lag screws will be secured through the cleat and drywall into the wall studs. Lay the French cleat on a work surface with the bevel facing down and mark the position for the studs. Pre-drill the holes for the lag screws. Position the cleat on the wall and drive the lag screws through the pre-drilled holes in the cleat and the drywall into the wall studs.  Hang the cabinet on the cleat mounted to the wall matching the bevels.