I have long been frustrated with the raised dog feeder we had. It was ugly, took up valuable floor space and was difficult to clean under. So, when Ryobi asked me to design a project for my pet, I immediately knew a wall mounted feeding station was my solution.
I used combination of scraps; high quality plywood and beautiful rough cut walnut leftover from our Kitchen Island Cart build. I have done my best to illustrate in the sketch how to build your own with basic building supplies, but feel free to modify the plan, using any scrap wood you have or size needed for size of your pet. If you have access to a table saw you could use one 1x12x6 board or a piece of plywood and rip all your pieces as needed. Alternatively, the side pieces could easily be cut from 1×4’s, giving you a bit more width in your overhang and taller backsplash
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Step: 1
7. Rip boards for top and side panels to desired, height. My scraps dictated a height of 2.5".
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Step: 2
4. Drill a hole to start the blade near the edge of your circle.
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Step: 3
5. Insert blade of jig saw into the starter hole and follow the line of your circle. Sand edges to smooth as necessary.
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Step: 4
6. Cut side boards to 11" if not mitering corners. Cut top backsplash and front overhang to 23.5"
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Step: 5
Gather your building materials and review plans.
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Step: 6
Cut deck of feeder to 22″ x 11″.
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Step: 7
Draw out 2 circles smaller than your bowls. At the widest point my bowls were 7.5″. I cut my holes at 7.25″. You can use a compass or print out circles from your computer.
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Step: 8
8. Using a Kreg Jig and a drill, make pocket holes, along the bottom of the feeding deck, as noted in the building plans.
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Step: 9
9.Using pocket screws, attach sides to the top and the backsplash to the top. Holding the sides flush with the top.
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Step: 10
10. Stain and or finish as desired. I used spar urethane because our dog is very splashy with his water. If you have a puppy or dog prone to chew, I would use a product that is non-toxic, like a butcher block oil.
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Step: 11
11. Cut a cleat to hang the feeder. It should fit snuggly under the feeding deck. Finish to match. If you have to attach your cleat in the center of your board, you will want to countersink your screws attaching the cleat to the wall so that the bracket can sit flush.
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Step: 12
12. To support the feeding deck cut a right angle triangle, making one side longer for more support. To do so safely, create a jig by cutting a scrap piece of wood at a 45 degree angle and secure it to your miter saw. Line the block of wood up to the jig and cut as needed to dissect the wood, creating a triangle.
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Step: 13
13. Pre-drill a hole to attach your bracket to the cleat/wall with a screw.
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Step: 14
14. To attach the feeder to the wall, find your studs. They should be 16" on center. (Our feeder was on an angled wall so the studs were not 16" apart, rather there was a stud in the center. We screwed directly into the studs in the center and then used dry wall anchors on the sides.)
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Step: 15
15. Alternatively to cutting a triangular bracket, you can use a simple 5" shelf bracket.
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Step: 16
16. Place feeder on top of the cleat and bracket. To secure the feeder to the cleat, we used a brad nailer through the sides. We also toe-nailed from underneath. You could also use screws from the sides, if you were painting your feeder and paint them to match.
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Step: 17
17. Add your bowls and a name if you'd like, then call your dog to dinner!