A simple DIY Farmhouse style coffee table with a hidden feature, storage! Flip open the top of the coffee table to reveal storage space for all of your remotes, magazines, books, etc.
Cut List 4 – 3 ½” x 3 ½” x 17 ¼” 5 – ¾” x 5 ½” x 48” 4 – ¾” x 5 ½” x 42 ½” 2 – ¾” x 5 ½” x 39” 2 – ¾” x 5 ½” x 18 ½” 2 – ¾” x 1 ½” x 39” 2 – ¾” x 1 ½” x 18 ½” 2 – ¾” x 2 ¼” x 2 ½”
Make sure to choose the straightest boards to use for this table. Cut all of the boards according to the cut list.
Cut 1 ¾” x 1 ¾” notches in 2 corners of 2 - 42 ½” boards. These notches can be trimmed a little larger if needed to fit later. (See cut diagram for placement.)
Optional – route a 1/8” round over on the 5 – top planks (48”). This will make it less obvious where the boards are hinged. If you don’t have a router, you can use a sander on an angle to achieve the same look.
The top (48”) will have 2 boards joined together and 3 boards joined together. The bottom boards (42 ½”) will all be joined together. Drill pocket holes for ¾” material in the boards. Use wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket hole screws to attach the boards together. *Let the glue dry with the boards flat! Optional – sand and finish the top and bottom boards now before assembly onto table.
Drill pocket holes for ¾” material in all of the ends of the skirt boards (5 ½” x 39”, 5 ½” x 18 ½”). On the back skirt board and the sides, drill additional pocket holes to attach the back top piece later.
Mark 1” in from the outsides of the legs. Use wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket hole screws to attach the skirt boards to each leg. Inset the skirt boards 1” from the outside of the leg, and make the skirt and leg tops flush. Repeat for each leg, until base is assembled.
Mark ¼” along the long side of each trim piece. Use wood glue and 1 ¼” brad nails to attach the trim to the bottom of the skirt boards. Offset the trim to stick out ¼”.
Drill pocket holes for ¾” material in the hinge support blocks (2 ½” x 2 ¼”). Mark 7 7/8” from the inside of the leg. Place the block at 7 7/8" and 1/8" down from the top of the skirt. Attach the hinge support block to the skirt with wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket hole screws. Optional – sand and finish the table base now.
Attach the hinges to the front top piece (3 – 48” boards) according to the manufactures directions. The center of the hinges should be about 4” from each end. I use the liberty hinge template and 35mm forstner bit.
Center the front top piece (3 -48” boards) on the table base and attach hinges to the hinge support block.
Place the back top piece (2 – 48” boards) next to the front top pieces and secure in place with 1 ¼” pocket holes screws. Lift the lid and make sure it can open, adjust hinges as necessary.
Open table top and slide the bottom piece into place. Trim the bottom as necessary to fit. Use brad nails and 1 ¼” nails to secure bottom onto the trim.
A simple DIY Farmhouse style coffee table with a hidden feature, storage! Flip open the top of the coffee table to reveal storage space for all of your remotes, magazines, books, etc.
Cut List 4 – 3 ½” x 3 ½” x 17 ¼” 5 – ¾” x 5 ½” x 48” 4 – ¾” x 5 ½” x 42 ½” 2 – ¾” x 5 ½” x 39” 2 – ¾” x 5 ½” x 18 ½” 2 – ¾” x 1 ½” x 39” 2 – ¾” x 1 ½” x 18 ½” 2 – ¾” x 2 ¼” x 2 ½”
Make sure to choose the straightest boards to use for this table. Cut all of the boards according to the cut list.
Cut 1 ¾” x 1 ¾” notches in 2 corners of 2 - 42 ½” boards. These notches can be trimmed a little larger if needed to fit later. (See cut diagram for placement.)
Optional – route a 1/8” round over on the 5 – top planks (48”). This will make it less obvious where the boards are hinged. If you don’t have a router, you can use a sander on an angle to achieve the same look.
The top (48”) will have 2 boards joined together and 3 boards joined together. The bottom boards (42 ½”) will all be joined together. Drill pocket holes for ¾” material in the boards. Use wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket hole screws to attach the boards together. *Let the glue dry with the boards flat! Optional – sand and finish the top and bottom boards now before assembly onto table.
Drill pocket holes for ¾” material in all of the ends of the skirt boards (5 ½” x 39”, 5 ½” x 18 ½”). On the back skirt board and the sides, drill additional pocket holes to attach the back top piece later.
Mark 1” in from the outsides of the legs. Use wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket hole screws to attach the skirt boards to each leg. Inset the skirt boards 1” from the outside of the leg, and make the skirt and leg tops flush. Repeat for each leg, until base is assembled.
Mark ¼” along the long side of each trim piece. Use wood glue and 1 ¼” brad nails to attach the trim to the bottom of the skirt boards. Offset the trim to stick out ¼”.
Drill pocket holes for ¾” material in the hinge support blocks (2 ½” x 2 ¼”). Mark 7 7/8” from the inside of the leg. Place the block at 7 7/8" and 1/8" down from the top of the skirt. Attach the hinge support block to the skirt with wood glue and 1 ¼” pocket hole screws. Optional – sand and finish the table base now.
Attach the hinges to the front top piece (3 – 48” boards) according to the manufactures directions. The center of the hinges should be about 4” from each end. I use the liberty hinge template and 35mm forstner bit.
Center the front top piece (3 -48” boards) on the table base and attach hinges to the hinge support block.
Place the back top piece (2 – 48” boards) next to the front top pieces and secure in place with 1 ¼” pocket holes screws. Lift the lid and make sure it can open, adjust hinges as necessary.
Open table top and slide the bottom piece into place. Trim the bottom as necessary to fit. Use brad nails and 1 ¼” nails to secure bottom onto the trim.
