My master bedroom has been neglected long enough. It is time to for a makeover and I started with a bed. A DIY farmhouse style bed. My new farmhouse bed has a large headboard with an X design in the middle, side rails, and a footboard. *Please note that these plans include optional slats to hold a box spring and mattress. I did not use slats in the building of my bed since my mattress and box spring are on a metal frame that fits within this bed.
TIPS:
Cut wood and drill pocket holes in the workshop, then assemble bed in the room will it will be located (this bed is heavy!)
Two people make the assembly go much smoother - especially when attaching the side rails!
Use a level when attaching the side rails
Cut the pieces for the legs and the headboard stretchers. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2”material, drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers. Secure the stretchers to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The front faces of the stretchers will be flush with the front faces of the legs. (The lower stretcher is to attach the center slat support.)
Cut the pieces for the headboard stiles and rails. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure the stiles and rails to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the headboard panel. Secure the panel to the back of the stiles and rails using 1-1/4”screws. The panel will overlap the opening by 2” on each side.
Cut the pieces for the X. The angle dimensions are given but sometimes it is easier to lay the pieces on top then mark the position of the angles and cut along that line. Secure the X pieces in place using glue and 1-1/2” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the upper and lower caps. Secure the 4-1/2” wide cap first, (with the ends overhanging by 1” and the sides overhanging by 1/2”) using glue and 1-1/2” brad nails, then secure the upper cap on top (with the ends overhanging by 1” and the sides overhanging by 1/2”) in the same manner.
Cut the pieces for the footboard legs and stretchers. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers. Secure the stretchers to the legs using glue and 2-1/2”pocket hole screws. The front faces of the stretchers will be flush with the front faces of the legs.
Cut the pieces for the footboard stiles and rails. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure the stiles and rails to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the footboard panel. Secure the panel to the back of the stiles and rails using 1-1/4”screws. The panel will overlap the opening by 2” on each side.
Cut the pieces for the upper and lower caps. Secure the 4-1/2” wide cap first, (with the ends overhanging by 1” and the sides overhanging by 1/2”) using glue and 1-1/2” brad nails, then secure the upper cap on top (with the ends overhanging by 1” and the sides overhanging by 1/2”) in the same manner.
Cut the pieces for the side rails and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the side rails to the headboard and footboard legs using pocket hole screws. Depending on how far in on the legs the side rails are positioned, 2” or 2-1/2” pocket hole screws may be used. DO NOT USE GLUE!
Cut the pieces for the center slat support and leg. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the support piece. Secure the leg to the center of the slat support using glue and 2-1/2” screws. Secure the center support assembly to the headboard and footboard using 2-1/2”pocket hole screws. DO NOT USE GLUE!
Cut the 1x2 pieces for the slat supports. Secure to the side rails using 1-1/4” screws. DO NOT USE GLUE!
My master bedroom has been neglected long enough. It is time to for a makeover and I started with a bed. A DIY farmhouse style bed. My new farmhouse bed has a large headboard with an X design in the middle, side rails, and a footboard. *Please note that these plans include optional slats to hold a box spring and mattress. I did not use slats in the building of my bed since my mattress and box spring are on a metal frame that fits within this bed. TIPS: Cut wood and drill pocket holes in the workshop, then assemble bed in the room will it will be located (this bed is heavy!) Two people make the assembly go much smoother - especially when attaching the side rails! Use a level when attaching the side rails
Cut the pieces for the legs and the headboard stretchers. With the pocket hole jig set for 1-1/2”material, drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers. Secure the stretchers to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The front faces of the stretchers will be flush with the front faces of the legs. (The lower stretcher is to attach the center slat support.)
Cut the pieces for the headboard stiles and rails. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure the stiles and rails to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the headboard panel. Secure the panel to the back of the stiles and rails using 1-1/4”screws. The panel will overlap the opening by 2” on each side.
Cut the pieces for the X. The angle dimensions are given but sometimes it is easier to lay the pieces on top then mark the position of the angles and cut along that line. Secure the X pieces in place using glue and 1-1/2” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the upper and lower caps. Secure the 4-1/2” wide cap first, (with the ends overhanging by 1” and the sides overhanging by 1/2”) using glue and 1-1/2” brad nails, then secure the upper cap on top (with the ends overhanging by 1” and the sides overhanging by 1/2”) in the same manner.
Cut the pieces for the footboard legs and stretchers. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers. Secure the stretchers to the legs using glue and 2-1/2”pocket hole screws. The front faces of the stretchers will be flush with the front faces of the legs.
Cut the pieces for the footboard stiles and rails. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure the stiles and rails to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the footboard panel. Secure the panel to the back of the stiles and rails using 1-1/4”screws. The panel will overlap the opening by 2” on each side.
Cut the pieces for the upper and lower caps. Secure the 4-1/2” wide cap first, (with the ends overhanging by 1” and the sides overhanging by 1/2”) using glue and 1-1/2” brad nails, then secure the upper cap on top (with the ends overhanging by 1” and the sides overhanging by 1/2”) in the same manner.
Cut the pieces for the side rails and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the side rails to the headboard and footboard legs using pocket hole screws. Depending on how far in on the legs the side rails are positioned, 2” or 2-1/2” pocket hole screws may be used. DO NOT USE GLUE!
Cut the pieces for the center slat support and leg. Set the pocket hole jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the support piece. Secure the leg to the center of the slat support using glue and 2-1/2” screws. Secure the center support assembly to the headboard and footboard using 2-1/2”pocket hole screws. DO NOT USE GLUE!
Cut the 1x2 pieces for the slat supports. Secure to the side rails using 1-1/4” screws. DO NOT USE GLUE!
