Bring your love of woodworking into your home with this workbench style desk. Made from pine lumber, it’s sturdy, stylish, and inexpensive to make.
**Exclusive Feature**:
Click here to download Ana's blueprints for this How-To!
Cut List
2 - 1x4 @ 39-3/4” - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, NOT parallel, long point to long point measurement (top aprons, front and back)
1 - 1x4 @ 46-3/4” - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, NOT parallel, long point to long point measurement (back base support)
2 - 1x4 @ 16-1/4” - (back vertical supports)
4 - 2x6 @ 29-3/4” - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel, long point to short point measurement (legs)
4 - 1x4 @ 21” (side aprons and base supports)
2 - 1x4 @ 29-3/4” - both ends cut at 45 degrees, ends ARE parallel, long point to short point measurement (side cross supports)
1 - 2x6 @ 30-3/4” - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel, long point to short point measurement (decorative front leg)
2 - 1x2 @ 24” (side top trim)
1 - 1x2 @ 61-1/2” (back top trim)
Cut front top trim to fit - angle will be 10 degrees
I used a pocket hole jig and my Ryobi Compact 18 Volt drill to build the back and the main pieces.
Next, I added the legs to the center part of the back. I kept pocket holes on the outside since my desk will be against a wall. If your desk is floating in the room, you may wish to place pocket holes on inside.
The front is similar to the back, just without the bottom base support and vertical supports.
With the front and back pieces done, I used the side aprons and side base supports to attach the front and back. It really started looking like a desk here! TIP: Before attaching front and back, drill 3/4” pocket holes facing upward in all aprons on inside for attaching the top in later steps.
For the cross supports, I placed them in position, used a pencil to mark the excess overhang, and cut off with the miter saw (you could also cut off with jigsaw or circular saw). Then I attached with my Ryobi AirStrike Nailer and glue.
Attach top through predrilled holes - will be flush to front and back of project panel. Split the end overhangs evenly.
To give the desk true workbench styling, I added a fifth leg on top of the left front leg. I just glued it and clamped it. TIP: It’s easier (especially with this sander!) to sand off marks before attaching.
Cut boards to trim out the top. I choose to use my AirStrike stapler to attach so the staple heads showed through - so pretty!
Enjoy your desk and new workspace--you deserve it! **Exclusive Feature**: Click here to download Ana's blueprints for this How-To!
Bring your love of woodworking into your home with this workbench style desk. Made from pine lumber, it’s sturdy, stylish, and inexpensive to make. **Exclusive Feature**: <a href="http://www.ryobitools.com/pdf/ana_white.pdf">Click here to download Ana's blueprints for this How-To! </a> Cut List 2 - 1x4 @ 39-3/4” - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, NOT parallel, long point to long point measurement (top aprons, front and back) 1 - 1x4 @ 46-3/4” - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, NOT parallel, long point to long point measurement (back base support) 2 - 1x4 @ 16-1/4” - (back vertical supports) 4 - 2x6 @ 29-3/4” - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel, long point to short point measurement (legs) 4 - 1x4 @ 21” (side aprons and base supports) 2 - 1x4 @ 29-3/4” - both ends cut at 45 degrees, ends ARE parallel, long point to short point measurement (side cross supports) 1 - 2x6 @ 30-3/4” - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel, long point to short point measurement (decorative front leg) 2 - 1x2 @ 24” (side top trim) 1 - 1x2 @ 61-1/2” (back top trim) Cut front top trim to fit - angle will be 10 degrees
I used a pocket hole jig and my Ryobi Compact 18 Volt drill to build the back and the main pieces.
Next, I added the legs to the center part of the back. I kept pocket holes on the outside since my desk will be against a wall. If your desk is floating in the room, you may wish to place pocket holes on inside.
The front is similar to the back, just without the bottom base support and vertical supports.
With the front and back pieces done, I used the side aprons and side base supports to attach the front and back. It really started looking like a desk here! TIP: Before attaching front and back, drill 3/4” pocket holes facing upward in all aprons on inside for attaching the top in later steps.
For the cross supports, I placed them in position, used a pencil to mark the excess overhang, and cut off with the miter saw (you could also cut off with jigsaw or circular saw). Then I attached with my Ryobi AirStrike Nailer and glue.
Attach top through predrilled holes - will be flush to front and back of project panel. Split the end overhangs evenly.
To give the desk true workbench styling, I added a fifth leg on top of the left front leg. I just glued it and clamped it. TIP: It’s easier (especially with this sander!) to sand off marks before attaching.
Cut boards to trim out the top. I choose to use my AirStrike stapler to attach so the staple heads showed through - so pretty!
Enjoy your desk and new workspace--you deserve it! **Exclusive Feature**: Click here to download Ana's blueprints for this How-To!
